The “Other” Type of Armenian: A Story from Israel

By Tina Atamian
Tinaatamian@ucla.edu

Armenians love to classify themselves into subgroups – “Are you Parskahye? Hayastantsi? Beirutsi?” – But what if you don’t fit into any of those classifications? Every time I explain to a peer that I am a “Yeroosaghemtsi,” (yes, I know that’s a mouthful), I almost always get the same disgruntled expression. In case you’re wondering, I am an Armenian from Jerusalem – and here’s my untold story.

I was born in Jerusalem, Israel - the holiest city in the world. I was lucky enough to visit my birthplace after being away from Israel for almost fourteen years. As cliché as this sounds, the three weeks I spent traveling all of Israel filled a void within me that I didn’t even know was there to begin with.

This personal piece isn’t about boasting where I’m from or debating what type of Armenian is better. Instead, I want to open readers’ minds to the world they have not been taught about in Armenian History class, the places they should see as true Armenians before they die, and to learn about how much culture Armenians continue to leave behind within Israel.

My grandmother (R.I.P.) had a house within the Armenian Convent found on Mount Zion in Old City, Jerusalem. This community of Armenians living within the 900-year-old quarter resides next to the Jewish and Muslim quarters, and has provided a sanctuary for Armenians who were exiled during the Genocide of 1915. It has been a home for Armenians who lack support from family and friends. Neighbors living near one another know each other by name, borrow herbs and spices from one another, and live as a microcosm of Armenians outside of Armenia.

Behind the convent, through a heavy metal door is the community’s cemetery – which was my favorite place to visit, not only because my grandparents are buried there, but because of the history that is entrenched within those walls. Walking through pillars of grape vines and alongside a narrow corridor, one can spot the grave of a previous patriarch from the 17th century! Every Saturday after the melodic sounds of the church bells ring, one can see family members of the convent walking towards the cemetery to pay their respects to their ancestors.

I could write an endless journal of the stories and adventures I’ve had within the walls of the Convent as a child, but this article’s limited. Instead, if you, the reader, will have the opportunity to someday visit Jerusalem in the future, there are three places I insist you visit. The first would be the Jordan River. Not because it is the typical touristic sight, but for a much more important, and almost less noticed reason. At the entrance of the sight, there are panels all alongside the main building found in front of the river. The first panel, out of almost 30 panels written in different languages, is none other than the most beautifully articulated and calligraphic sentences written in Armenian. I stood and smiled.

I had the opportunity to visit Armenian churches and cathedrals found around Israel with the Archbishop of the Armenian Church. The Holy Sepulchre Church - where Jesus is buried, The Church of Mary Magdalene on the top of Mount Zion, and Tabgha Church, were three of my favorite landmarks. Within each church there is the Roman, the Greek, and the Armenian sector. As biased as my opinion might be, the most ornately decorated and well-kept parts of the church belong to the Armenians. Visit these sights, and you’ll agree.

I didn’t write this piece to convert non-believers and send peers to Israel on pilgrimages. Those who know me also know that I am not presently the most religious person. But what I do value is the importance of religion and Christianity within our Armenian heritage and culture. I value how religion has kept our community together and has helped us preserve our poems, songs, fables, and other forms of beautiful literature. Armenians have worked consistently at preserving the Armenian presence within Jerusalem today, and visiting these sites makes me proud to say that I am an Armenian from Israel.

I urge those who view Israel as a predominantly Jewish nation, to reconsider how much Armenian ancestral history we have there. Most importantly, by reading this, I want one more Armenian out there to learn something their Armenian history teachers should have spent a little more time teaching in their 8th grade classes.