Sunday, September 28, 2008

Traditional Armenian Costumes (Spring 08)


Niyiri Manougian
niyirianaghchig@netscape.net

What is it about Armenian traditional costumes that have allowed them to retain their status and intrigue in Armenian culture to the present day?
Their nostalgic presence as an indication of the past might be one of the prevailing reasons. They serve as historical documentation of a culture that has no formal history it can lay claim to. They represent images of past Armenian life, urban or pastoral, that provide insight to the daily lives of a people unrecorded in the pages of history.





Armenians have always looked to the past as a touchstone for the present "where the present community has succeeded and failed" and as an indicator for the future of the culture.
With history so much a part of the present culture it is no wonder that Armenian costumes are held in such high status today.



In June of 1914 a group of Armenian girls from the American College for Girls in Constantinople put on a show displaying traditional costumes (National Geographic October 1915). Even they felt the need to look back at the past and to demonstrate the culture through costumes.
Armenian costumes are intriguing, not only for their historical value, but also because of their diversity. This is seen not only in the context of time, but also in a geographically, where costumes from the same era are different because they are from different regions.

Due to global marketing today, the same flip flops on a Bruin’s feet can be found halfway across the world. There is no real distinction left in the clothes of different cultures or regions unless someone lives in Siberia. However, let’s not isolate the Siberians; we wear Uggs here in So-Cal too.
Armenian’s mountainous terrain has served to isolate one village or province from the other. This separation has caused the distinction in the clothes that Armenians wore. But geography is not the only factor at play. Politics, believe it or not, has also had its influence on Armenian clothes. The clothes in different regions have been influenced by neighboring countries, which have at some time or another ruled the Armenian provinces.
To provide for these costumes, Armenia had to be rich in resources. Armenia is rich in wool from the grazing sheep, and cotton. Both materials were used in making the costumes we see today. Since the climate in Armenia is cold, fur was often added for warmth. Armenia also has a rich history involving the textile trade. Chinese silk has been found in Armenia dating as far back as 750 B.C.
Now, set aside the regional differences for a minute. Why would everyday clothes, whether they be of the wealthy urban Armenians or the keghchoug pastor in a small village, be so intricately and elaborately designed and embroidered?
With the textiles from natural sources and the trade, Armenians formed a talent for needlework, and, as a result, embroidery became a part of the everyday lives of people from all walks of life. The more intricate the embroidery, the better.
As brides in those days couldn’t go to Macy’s for bridal registry, girls began to prepare their bridal ozjid at a young age. These linens were then laid out for the whole village to scrutinize before the wedding.
No wonder Armenians’ sense of design evolved into needlework saturated with intricacies. Maybe that’s the tradition driving many Armenians today to the nearest designer couture to spend big bucks on a label? After all, the whole village, or ‘community’ is judging who you wear.
The pictures and information for this article and for more information or pictures regarding Armenian costumes: Armenian Costumes Through the Centuries, Armenian Relief Society Western Region U.S.A., Sophia Chapter Fresno, California.

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